DSLR Astrofotografi 2009

[mymoon]

sahabat2 semua,
Bila sudah tamat dengan jayanya program pada hari berkenaan rasa macam hendak menitis air mata kegembiraan. semua yang terlibat memang tersangat memberi komitmen dalam tugasan masing-masing rasa tidak puas pulak. Hari Isnin bila mula bertugas mula terasa penat. tapi bila melihat gambar-gambar yang dipaparkan terubat rasa penat lelah. Semuga Konvensyen Astronomi UPSI menjadi acara tahunan terus menjadi kenyataan, tapi jangan setakat konvensyen tetapi pengisian kajian diteruskan, apa yang diperjuangkan ada hasilnya untuk manafaat manusia sejagat. harapan UPSI yang mempunyai cendikiawan akan terus melahirkan pemikir, pengkaji yang bersaing dengan dunia astronomi. Bagi mereka yang seangkatan dengan saya akan terus menabur setakat yang kami mampu sememangnya banyak perkara yang perlu dilaksanakan oleh anak Malaysia dalam dunia ASTRONOMI/FALAK.

Terima kasih kerana menghargai penginapan di INSTUN, risau juga takut kawan-kawan tidak selesa.

Potong stim...lah, muhasabah tu bagus

but life must go on supaya kita boleh


menginap di INSTUN lagi
makan free sambil menimba ilmu
silatulrahim geng2 yang cun2 di UPSI
juga geng2 yang sahati sejiwa

dan buat DSLR Astrophotography 2009



cheers

[mymoon]

nak buat cerapan , nak ambil gambar bulan tapi langit tidak menizinkan

cuba buat latihan untuk ambil gambar bintang. boleh dibuat dalam rumah.


camera di atas tripod,
remote shutter release/timer exposure
high ISO of 1600 boleh juga guna 800
Manual mode
set aperture to f4
set exposure to 1.6 sec
off lampu tinggal lampu tangga saje
compose gambar dan manual focus dengan sebaik2 nya

ambil 10 shots object-ini di panggil light frames
put on lense cap and take 6 shots- ini di panggil dark frames
pasang lampu
ambil gambar dinding puteh 6 shots-ini di panggil flat frames atau tudung front of the lense dengan singlet puteh and smooth out the folds and take 6 shots

download DeepSkyStacker and install in computer
download Irfan view and install in computer. selepas tu download the Irfanview plugins and install in the computer

create a new folder Astro 101 and download from CF card/SD card 22 keping gambar tu ke folder itu.

use lrfan view to view the pictures; the 10 light frames, the 6 dark frames and the 6 flat frames. Take note of the file numbers.

run DeepSkyStacker

(with the help of Irfan view thumbnails)

click open picture files and  download the 10 light frames
click dark files and download the 6 dark frames
click flat files and download the 6 flat frames

click check all

click register checked pictures
click OK for the register settings
click OK for the stacking steps
pergi hisap rokok atau minum teh atau mandi

depending on the computer come back in 30mins

close DeepSkyStacker. your processed pictures is Autosave in folder Astro 101 .

open Photoshop

File>open>folder astro101 autosave

ini 32 bit gambar

tukar ke 16 atau 8 bit.

untuk cepat process dan selamatkan H/D space kita guna 8 bit

Image>mode>8bits/channel

perform brightness, contrast and colour correction. 

post gambar dulu dan sekarang disini lah.

end of Tutorial.

gambar dulu(satu dari 10 gambar yang di tangkap lah)



gambar sekarang(selepas kena DeepSkyStacker dan PS)


hujan dah reda.

selamat mencuba. di luar rumah pun boleh cuba. guna telephoto lens ambil gambar dibawa pokok atau bawah rumah.



cheers

[CassiniSoldner]

fuhh.. x paham la en. aziz
kene tunjuk praktikal skali nih

ayam golek pulut kuning pengerasnya
boleh ke en. aziz

nak tanya sket...
irfanview punya plug-in kene beli kan?

[mymoon]

fuhh.. x paham la en. aziz

step mana yang kena elaborate

ayam golek pulut kuning pengerasnya
boleh ke en. aziz

pasal makan free anytime

nak tanya sket...
irfanview punya plug-in kene beli kan?

free. irfanview free plugins pun free. dengan plugins you boleh buka gambar RAW 




ini preamble ke bengkel DSLR astrophotography. practise dengan ground targets. sekali sekala bangun setengah jam sebelum subuh, tahajud ,lepas tu tangkap gambar bintang2 di langit lah. bintang2 UPSI tunggu..

pening nak frame gambar dgn camera atas tripod ,bintang/constellation oooverhead. kena focus pula tu.



kalau tak pass yang ini , kena pi kelas tadika lah.

selamat  mencuba.

quote dari USM "cuba jangan tak cuba."

cheers

[botok]

Bro mymoon, tutorial (read:exercise) ni untuk dslr jer ker? P&S tak boleh ker?

Dah try dengan normal p&s (Canon Powershot A570 IS) tapi hasil dia tak memberangsangkan laa.. terlampau banyak noise.

Ini saya gerak kerja yg saya buat :-
1. Shot in RAW.
2. Turn off built-in dark frame substraction.
3. Light - 10
4. Dark - 10
5. Flat - 10
6. Offset - 10
7. Gerak kerja dalam DeepSkyStacker dan PS ikut sebijik SOP yg diberi.

[mymoon]

in astrophotography, you have to take many shots of the same faint object. the many pictures are then stacked on top of one another  and if everything goes as planned we get a picture like the M42 taken by universe24.

although the object is moving in space at a constant speed , the DSLR is mounted on a equatorial mount and the mount if a good mount it should track the object; ie the object can be deemed stationary relative to the DSLR. UPSi people should be able to give the mathematics and physics of this.

hence my tutorial . you can "simulate" in the comfort of your homes by mounting your DSLR on the fixed tripod and shoot a subject many many times at high ISO=800/1600, at f4/f5.6, shutter speed=1.5 sec and increasing progressively up to 4mins as taken by universe24 for his M42 shots.

To shoot such pictures in the day or/and at night you need to find or create a  nearly dark area. If a person cannot be seen until he/she open his mouth; can see teeth only lah then it is more than enough.

after you shoot the light frames, dark frames and flat frames you can process in the astronomy software such as DeepSkyStacker and the final result is an image free from noise, a little noise remains, as if you take a usual photoshoot of the subject.

Now what are those errr...frames( I suspect frames comes from the dark ages of photography where light sensitive chemical coated framed glass are used in place of cmos).

Light Frames:The Light Frames are the faint images that contain the real info. (together with some extra info which
                  we donot want known as dark signals). the light frames are the pictures of nebulas,galaxies, star clusters...
                  Shoot as many as possible. This is what we want to stack.

Dark Frames:They are used to remove the dark signals present in your light frames (again physics and technology)
                  The Dark Frames are created when shooting in complete darkness such as with the lens cap  on.
                   Since we are to subtract from our above Light Frames they must be taken at the same ISO and
                   exposure time. So put the lense cap on and  immediately shoot them. How many. Rule of thumb
                   not less than half the number of light frames. if you shoot 20 light frames then shoot 10 dark frames.

              .
 Flat Frames:The Flat Frames are used to correct the imperfections in camera and lenses/telescopes including dust
                  or fingerprints on your lenses. This the one you take with your white Don singlet wrap round the
                  telescope and smoothen the fold covering your front lense. Then shoot at the same ISO as your
                  lights. How many; rule of thumb is the same as the Dark Frames.

There are others which we shall be bothered at the moment. Hey we are at DSLR 2009  yet.  we shall tackle them up at DSLR 2010.

Yes one more thing : Do turn OFF the built in noise reduction on your DSLR. (thanks to botok for reminding)


 

end of elaboration of tutorial.   
   

                             

[mymoon]

Bro mymoon, tutorial (read:exercise) ni untuk dslr jer ker? P&S tak boleh ker?

Dah try dengan normal p&s (Canon Powershot A570 IS) tapi hasil dia tak memberangsangkan laa.. terlampau banyak noise.

Ini saya gerak kerja yg saya buat :-
1. Shot in RAW.
2. Turn off built-in dark frame substraction.
3. Light - 10
4. Dark - 10
5. Flat - 10
6. Offset - 10
7. Gerak kerja dalam DeepSkyStacker dan PS ikut sebijik SOP yg diberi.

ahem...maybe your shutter speed limit of 30seconds is not long enough.

try with more light frames. wilsonite did get good results.

[mymoon]

comments and corrections most welcome.

ancora imparo   

cheers

[mymoon]

in the example above I used a straight forward remote shutter release. I have misplaced the original Canon used for my 20D so I now used a China made phottix brand. It work just as well. Canon is naughty as the remote for the XXXD cannot be used with the XXD or XD

300D/350D/400D/450D remote will not work with 20D/30D/40D/50D or the 1D bodies. You have to buy seperate remotes.

With the basic remote a slight press on the release activates the camera's metering and autofocus and then a further press releases the shutter. There is also a lock position that permits manually setting a long exposure time.

So if I were to use this remote for universe24's shooting for M42 with  12 X 4 minute Light frames plus 6 x 4 minute Darks plus 6 X 4 minute Flats  at my age I will fall asleep and my finger will go numb. For universe24 it is OK for he is still very young.
 

so what is the solution for me. One will be to hire a SYT as assistant.
I don't think I will be doing astrophotography

the other is to use Canon TC-80N3 — Timer Remote Controller or China copy at less than half the price.


The four primary functions  available on TC-80N3  are Self Timer, Interval Timer, Long Exposure and the Exposure Count Setting.

Self Timer

Just like the self timer on your camera. Except where most Canon bodies offer either a 2 second delay or a 10 second delay, the TC-80N3 allows you to set any delay (in 1 second increments) up to 99 hours, 99 minutes and 99 seconds. Let's call it 100 hours. That's just over 4 days!

Interval Timer

The Interval Timer can be set to any time period up to 100 hours as well. If you set it to 10 minutes, for example, one exposure will be taken every 10 minutes until either the CF/SD card is full or camera battery runs out or the Exposure Count limit has been reached.

Long Exposure

This one is easy. It allows you to take time exposures up to (you guessed it) 100 hours in length.

Exposure Count

This fourth and final setting permits you to set the number of exposures that will be taken, up to a total 99.


The answer to my prayers.

First to take Light Frames. 12 exposures, 4 minutes each ,at f7(determined by telescope)

* Set the camera to single shot mode.
* Set camera to manual
* set aperture at f7
* Set the exposure mode to bulb on the camera.
* Set the total number of exposures to 12 on the TC-80N3.
* Set the Interval time between exposures to 10 seconds on the
   TC-80N3 (this gives the camera time to download the raw file to the
   in-camera memory card)
* Set the Exposure time on the TC-80N3 to 4mins.
* Start the exposure sequence by pressing START on the TC-80N3.
* lock the  pre-set combination of functions are not accidentally disturbed by the cat.
* go for a cup of tea.  come back in 50 minutes .

Repeat for Dark and Flat Frames. so time spent is 100+ minutes.

Allow for another 60 minutes for processing .

TOTAL acquistion time and preprocessing and post processing is 160+ minutes. that is just under 3 hours.

how about for setting the mount and getting the guide system in place; another 1 hour perhaps.

TOTAL time for M42 picture is 4 hours.

I salute astrophotographers.

Please check and correct the math.

cheers


PS: Some other real-world applications include when doing star trails, meteor showers— all of these require long exposure, sequential exposures and variable timing and counts. For example during a meteor shower you might want to set the camera up with a TC-80N3 set so that a new 5 minute-long exposure is taken every 15 minutes for the next 3 hours. The possibilities are endless.

Is falak online organising a get together for Geminid Meteor in December?

[shahgazer]

Is falak online organising a get together for Geminid Meteor in December?

Agak malang untuk tahun ni (2008), tarikh puncak juraian Meteor Geminids berlaku sehari selepas Bulan Penuh!!! Maknanya, langit akan disinari dengan sinaran rembulan. Meteor-meteor tak banyak dapat dilihat. Tapi kalau nak cuba jugak.. apa salahnye.. 

Mungkin boleh try pantai kelanang pulak. 

[MUZAMIR]

ha..
teringat mase pi kat pantai kelanang dulu..
apa kata cam ni.......




tempat ni ramai yg tak tau kat mane tengok maps ni..

[izah_hawa]

kalu program ni jd sy nak ikut...

tp xde dslr la, kene duk menumpang sape2 punye, fana punye ke, kamil ke... 

[universe24]

Tak ada DSLR boleh pakai film SLR. Sama-sama boleh ambil gambar...

[DinPerak]

kalau dslr takde, slr pun takde, pakai je MS & EC, tentu ok.

[amahir]

salam

i have already try the tips given. So this is the result on normal object

before


after


so, i tried it on the night sky
my setting is f5.6 , iso 800, fair sky condition, 10 light frame, 6 dark frame, 6 light frame

before


after


well, i didnt really think this is a good astro image. So, any tips or comment to improve it ?

Regards
Ahmad Mahir

Latest dr rowi equipment


Wallawey!