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shahgazer
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« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2008, 08:23:38 PM » |
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Latest dr rowi equipment  Wallawey! hehe... setuju! Wallawey! Scaryyyy!!! Lupa nak ghoyak... cuti Raya haritu, sempat singgah beraya rumah Dr. Rowi.. ni antara gambar yang sempat di ambil    |
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-Shahrin-
Founder FalakOnline
Meade 8" f/10 LX90, 10" f/4.5 Starfinder Dobsonian, 9x63 Vixen Bino, Mintron 12V1-EX, Mallincam Pro B/W, Mallincam Hyper Color, Toucam Pro, Canon 300D.
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me_ai
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« Reply #16 on: November 06, 2008, 08:51:21 PM » |
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fuyoooo...
cam 3 missile ready for launch...
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i will reach the sky
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mymoon
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« Reply #17 on: November 07, 2008, 08:23:06 AM » |
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salam
i have already try the tips given. So this is the result on normal object
excellent. see the carving details on the stacked image missing on the single shot.  so, i tried it on the night sky my setting is f5.6 , iso 800, fair sky condition, 10 light frame, 6 dark frame, 6 light frame before  after  well, i didnt really think this is a good astro image. So, any tips or comment to improve it ? Regards Ahmad Mahir 10 frames of 20sec giving you 200sec of exposure. unfortunately it doesn't work this way (else we could get away with 200 frames of 1 sec). 20 secs may not be sufficient to capture enough signal to stack. It is a case of not enough photons for stacking in the first place. From the angle of the branches the max allowable exposure before the star trail is 150 sec. rule of thumb is to use one third of that. So try at f3.5 at 50 sec for 10 frames. Had you use a Canon I would have recommended an ISO of 1600  Tripod mounted DSLR has this restriction of exposure time before stars start to trail. So Don't worry about star trailing at this stage. Once you have mastered this step try imaging constellation with a 50mm f1.8 . Happy shooting.  Just my views... the sifus can comment further... cheers |
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quicquid nitet notandum
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sunlay
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« Reply #18 on: November 07, 2008, 12:59:29 PM » |
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Latest dr rowi equipment Wallawey! hehe... setuju! Wallawey! Scaryyyy!!! Lupa nak ghoyak... cuti Raya haritu, sempat singgah beraya rumah Dr. Rowi.. ni antara gambar yang sempat di ambil power-power .... |
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mymoon
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« Reply #19 on: November 07, 2008, 03:09:07 PM » |
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Latest dr rowi equipment Wallawey! hehe... setuju! Wallawey! Scaryyyy!!! Lupa nak ghoyak... cuti Raya haritu, sempat singgah beraya rumah Dr. Rowi.. ni antara gambar yang sempat di ambil power-power .... yes big boys toys. salivate if you can't afford it. while there's quite a bit of elbow grease involved in this hobby, at least Dr Rowi is not spending beautiful dark sky nights wrestling with equipment. If you want to have good results, there is just no shortcut, you will have spend a lot of money or spend a lot of time compared to: Well both works cheers |
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quicquid nitet notandum
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universe24
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« Reply #20 on: November 08, 2008, 07:53:24 AM » |
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If choosing equipment carefully, no big upgrade needed at least in 5~10years time to come. I believe the setup that Dr. Rowi has, can serve for a life time. Those setup give us convenient to do imaging or stargazing during night time. As I always prefer to use UM's setup rather than my own observatory setup....manual gear & auto gear differences...  I bought my 29 years old Tak's P2 mount as 2nd hand and the mount still serve me well. It is my life time manual gear mount. The GP mount that inside my observatory is actually borrow from friend to help testing the equipment. |
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To infinity, and beyond
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universe24
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« Reply #21 on: November 08, 2008, 07:57:56 AM » |
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Amahir,
If the exposure time for single frame is short, try to fully open the aperture, so that more light can detect by your camera. Good try on your astrophoto. Keep it up.
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To infinity, and beyond
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mymoon
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« Reply #22 on: November 10, 2008, 02:09:30 PM » |
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I have been using Ron Wodaski's CCD Calculator to help me choose the telescope or the barlows when framing. What it does it gives a pictoral view of what to expect for the final image with your own telescope and camera combination. Now that the programme is free you can try by clicking here I found it rather limited in use. It does not cater for wide field images. Not for DSLR and lense combination. But it is free and it is a start. Nowadays for both laptops and desktops you can purchase ones with the LCD widescreen panels. Hey the LCD widescreen aspect ratio approximates 3:2 ie about 35X24mm frames. What a coincidence  So running a programe like stellarium another free programme which shows a realistic sky in 3D, just like what you see with the naked eye, binoculars or a telescope or DSLR . Better still running on this LCD widescreen can give you an idea of what to expect from your imaging and helps you with your framing. How? Step 1. Download the stellarium programme by clicking here . The beta release of version 10 indeed is a very improved version and very user friendly. Still with bugs but patience soon will be removed. RUN the programme. 2. Use the mouse move the cursor to the extreme left hand and change the location [F6] to Kuala Lumpur. Then set the date/time [F5]. 3. We will use M42 as an example. Search [F3] for M42. Rotate the mouse wheel till M42 fill the LCD widescreen. Normally for good composition leave some space all round. Read the FOV= 1.2 (on my laptop) 4. Goto Lens Focal Length and Field of View converter 5. Convert and get the required focal length of 1377mm. so for a telescope with a focal length of 600mm you will need a 2X barlow to get full frame of M42 using a crop DSLR such as Nikon D200 or Canon 450D. 6. Aim your telescope to the centre of the trapezium and shoot as per universe 24's recommendation. happy shooting. cheers |
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quicquid nitet notandum
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mymoon
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« Reply #23 on: November 13, 2008, 05:32:34 PM » |
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If choosing equipment carefully, no big upgrade needed at least in 5~10years time to come. I believe the setup that Dr. Rowi has, can serve for a life time. Those setup give us convenient to do imaging or stargazing during night time. As I always prefer to use UM's setup rather than my own observatory setup....manual gear & auto gear differences... I bought my 29 years old Tak's P2 mount as 2nd hand and the mount still serve me well. It is my life time manual gear mount. The GP mount that inside my observatory is actually borrow from friend to help testing the equipment. Wait till Dr Rowi got the upgrade disease. They really do sell snake oil with the astro adverts. cheers |
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quicquid nitet notandum
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universe24
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« Reply #24 on: November 14, 2008, 09:21:57 AM » |
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One of my friend would be very interested on the Pentax scope.... |
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To infinity, and beyond
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amahir
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« Reply #25 on: November 29, 2008, 02:10:19 PM » |
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salam sejahtera semua selepas 3minggu bertapa untk mencari doa penolak awan, akhirnya smlm langit di bandar kk ini free drpd awan. Tp skjap je la.. neva mind lor, yg penting dpt amik ganbo. so, bro mymoon said that "From the angle of the branches the max allowable exposure before the star trail is 150 sec. rule of thumb is to use one third of that. So try at f3.5 at 50 sec for 10 frames." ok. my next pictures is set at f3.5, 50 sec, 10 frames, iso 1600. diproses pakai deepskystacker n also adobe cs, based on the tutorial given. This is the result : before (1 single frame)  after (stacked of 10frames)  then, sy cuba saje2 nak try 25 stacked of frames, each 30 sec expose, f4.5, iso 800. skrg ni buruj orion kasi zoom skit.. before (1 single frame)  after (stacked of 25 frames)  so.. i would like to ask a few questions to all sifu here: 1) semua gambar tu diambil pakai .jpeg format. betul ke? ke nk pakai RAW? 2) apsal brightness tu susah nk adjust... nampak putih aje semua gambar after stack 3) lastly, apsal colour x menyerlah sgt ah? still underexpose ka? until now i still cant see the detail of m42, at least its red colour la... ok paling last.. knapa kdg2 tu amik gamba night sky ada effect mcm dkt arrow tu, where the lights come from ? walaupun pakai lens hood, the same problem still there..  huhu.. thank you everyone!  |
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Part Of Taman Tarbiah Mini-Observatory,
Kota Bharu, KELANTAN.
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universe24
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« Reply #26 on: November 30, 2008, 02:20:16 PM » |
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Hi amahir,
Percubaan yang bagus. I rasa keadaan langit tu tak begitu mengizinkan anda mendapat gambar yang lagi cantik.
Hasil gambar anda mengalami lens distortion dan mungkin ada sikit perubahan daripada zoom lens itu dah lari sikit menyebabkan bintang di tepi tidak bulat...
1) semua gambar tu diambil pakai .jpeg format. betul ke? ke nk pakai RAW?
Kalau boleh, gambar mesti diambil pakai RAW.
2) apsal brightness tu susah nk adjust... nampak putih aje semua gambar after stack
Ini sangat teknikal, I tak dapat jelaskannya sangat bagus disini. Tapi you boleh cuba guna "level" dalam photoshop
3) lastly, apsal colour x menyerlah sgt ah? still underexpose ka? until now i still cant see the detail of m42, at least its red colour la...
Kalau camera anda tidak modified, memang tak dapat gambar yang baik. Itu M42 dalam you punya image terlalu kecil, jadi tak nampak detail. Warna M42 itu daripada gambar anda adalah ok.
4) knapa kdg2 tu amik gamba night sky ada effect mcm dkt arrow tu, where the lights come from ? walaupun pakai lens hood, the same problem still there..
Itu effect dalam camera semasa kita buat masa dedahan yang lama.
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To infinity, and beyond
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mymoon
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« Reply #27 on: November 30, 2008, 06:00:51 PM » |
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Tahniah kerana berani mencuba.  Cubalah dengan RAW images. Gambar jpeg sudah di process dalam camera. Jadi bila di process sekali lagi dengan DSS ibarat hangat kari sejuk yang sudah masak. Kalau kena sedap. kalau sudah basi awas, kesungai lah  using DSS gambar Autosave memang look overexpose. Autosave is a 32 bit tiff zip file. You can change to any bit size and uncompressed if you like. Saya biarkan Autosave dilakukan dengan preset parameters dan goto PS to change to 16 bit uncompressed file. Ini saya akan buka dengan PS for Basic Photoshop Image Correction. Ada dua cara:- 1. #1 2. #2. saya telah cuba process dengan PS guna gambar awak dari set kedua iaitu orion. betelgeuse appear red-orange. cheers PS mungkin saudara minat kaedah ini untuk control DSS. |
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quicquid nitet notandum
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mymoon
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« Reply #28 on: November 30, 2008, 06:24:57 PM » |
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salam sejahtera semua
knapa kdg2 tu amik gamba night sky ada effect mcm dkt arrow tu, where the lights come from ? walaupun pakai lens hood, the same problem still there..
Did you cover the camera Eye Piece? Also, opening the flap to connect USB (etc) can leak light into the camera. cheers |
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amahir
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« Reply #29 on: December 01, 2008, 02:52:00 PM » |
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hi, thanks for help everyone!  Ada dua cara:- 1. #1 2. #2. saya telah cuba process dengan PS guna gambar awak dari set kedua iaitu orion. betelgeuse appear red-orange. saya dah cuba care yang ke #2, becoz cara yang #1 nmpak a bit complicated. this is the result 
Did you cover the camera Eye Piece?
Also, opening the flap to connect USB (etc) can leak light into the camera.
cheers
nope, i didnt cover the camera eyepice. hm... next time when imaging, i should shoot in RAW modes, keep the exposure to 30-50sec, iso about 800 (sy rase nikon still cant handle iso 1600-too many noises bah), f3.5-5.6 , n cover the eyepiece? btul ka? |
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