kat Kg Raja rupa nya . ambil single light frame saje ke.

wire letrik belah venus dua.

tunjuk lah yang di campur, tolak dan di adun tu.

ada bakat ni , belum lagi pi kursus

cheers

sugguh bagus . 2 malam imaging. sentuh pengunaan semua jenis camera. termasuk juga processing.

Berjenama pula penceramah.

Percuma pula.

tapi bertindih dengan program dengan kaum asli.

So sorry.

Lain kali.

cheers

My experience with astrophotography is currently limited to moonshots.   

I am sure like all types of photography the critical issue here is the skill of the person at the end of the telescope and keyboard, not the telescope on the mount. 


so like the sifu says, keep on practising those shots. 

 


cheers

struck by aperture fever already.

you can become one of the boleh bilang jari kanan C14 Malaysians  owners. 

About time to see C14 in light action. 7 sisters next.




gambar racun durjana. awak pun termakan



 

wow new camera eh sifu. Now focus is easy with live view.

mine taken about 10 minutes earlier



Canon 40Dh+ Canon 500mm f4+1.4X+2X extenders + Gitzo tripod + wimberley II head

cheers

Wait till Dr Rowi got the upgrade disease. They really do sell snake oil with the astro adverts.   

cheers

innalilah . takziah buat keluarga keluarga Allahyarham.

Al-Fatihah. May Allah envelope the roh of Allahyarham in his mercy and grace.

Amin

I have been using Ron Wodaski's CCD Calculator to help me choose the telescope or the barlows when framing.
What it does it gives a pictoral view of what to expect for the final image with  your own telescope and camera combination.

Now that the programme is free you can try by clicking here

I found it rather limited in use. It does not cater for wide field images. Not for DSLR and lense combination. But it is free and it is a start.

Nowadays for both laptops and desktops you can purchase ones with the LCD widescreen panels. Hey the  LCD widescreen aspect ratio approximates  3:2  ie about 35X24mm frames. What a coincidence


So running a programe like stellarium another free programme which shows a realistic sky in 3D, just like what you see with the naked eye, binoculars or a telescope or DSLR . Better still running on this LCD widescreen can give you an idea of what to expect from your imaging and helps you with your framing. How?

Step
1. Download the stellarium programme by clicking here . The beta release of version 10 indeed
    is  a very improved version and very user friendly. Still with bugs but patience soon will be removed. RUN the programme.
   
2. Use the mouse move the cursor to the extreme left hand and change the location  [F6] to Kuala Lumpur. Then set the date/time [F5].

3. We will use M42 as an example. Search [F3] for M42. Rotate the mouse wheel till M42 fill the LCD widescreen. Normally for good composition leave some space all round. Read the FOV= 1.2 (on my laptop)

4. Goto Lens Focal Length and Field of View converter

5. Convert and get the required focal length of 1377mm. so for a telescope with a focal length of 600mm you will need a 2X barlow to get full frame of M42 using a crop DSLR such as Nikon D200 or Canon 450D.

6. Aim your telescope to the centre of the trapezium and shoot as per universe 24's recommendation.

happy shooting.

cheers

this time an unsual moon surrounded by a halo



pre processed in DSS and level correction in PS2.

any sifu willing to explain why 

cheers

yes big boys toys. salivate if you can't afford it. 

while there's quite a bit of elbow grease involved in this hobby, at least Dr Rowi is not spending beautiful dark sky nights wrestling with equipment.

If you want to have good results, there is just no shortcut, you will have spend a lot of money or spend a lot of time

compared to:



Well both works

cheers

excellent. see the carving details on the stacked image missing on the single shot.



10 frames of 20sec  giving you 200sec of exposure. unfortunately it doesn't work this way (else we could get away with 200 frames of 1 sec). 20 secs may not be sufficient to capture enough signal to stack.  It is a case of not enough photons for stacking in the first place.

From  the angle of the branches the max allowable exposure before the star trail is 150 sec. rule of thumb is to use one third of that.  So try at f3.5 at 50 sec for 10 frames.

Had you use a Canon I would have recommended an ISO of 1600 

Tripod mounted DSLR has this restriction of exposure time  before stars start to trail. So Don't worry about star trailing at this stage.

Once you have mastered this step try imaging constellation with a 50mm f1.8 .

Happy shooting.

Just my views... the sifus can comment further...

cheers

emmm...saya harap ia nya tidak melambang trade mark amateur astronomers 

cheers

BTW lupa boleh guna 70-200mm f2.8 untuk macro 



untuk ambil ini



dengan menggunakan ini- extension tubes



cheers

mentang2 ada 70-200 mm f2.8.   

lebeh  daripada macro lagi pun boleh.










cheers

wah boleh lah jadi official falak online jurugambar. test kamera baru

tangkap mesti tangkap. tangkap banyak2 gambar bintang2 didarat.

cheers